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History[edit]

Japanese tabi are usually understood today to be a kind of split-toed sock that is not meant to be worn alone outdoors, much like regular socks. However, tabi were originally a kind of leather shoe made from a single animal hide, as evidenced by historical usage and the earlier form of the word, tanbi, written 単皮, with the kanji literally signifying "single hide".[2][3][4] As Japanese footwear evolved, tabi also changed, with the split-toe design emerging towards the late Heian period (794–1185 CE) to allow the wearer to accommodate the thong of sandals.[5] Outdoor versions of tabi involved some kind of reinforcement, with soles traditionally made of cloth, leather, or straw.


Brothers Tokujirō Ishibashi and Shōjirō Ishibashi, founders of the tyre company Bridgestone, are credited with the invention of rubber-soled jika-tabi in 1922;[6][7][8][9][10] these are now the dominant form of outdoor tabi, and the term tabi generally refers to the indoor form.

Styles[edit]

The most common color of tabi is white, which represents purity. White tabi are worn in formal situations such as tea ceremonies. Men sometimes will wear blue or black tabi for traveling. Colored tabi are also available, and are sometimes used in kabuki theatre as part of a character's costume,[15][16] or are worn with more casual outfits as fashion.


Traditionally, tabi are sewn from cloth cut to form. They are open at the back to be slipped on and have fasteners along the opening (known as kohaze) so they can be closed. Tabi sewn from stretch material without fasteners are also available.

Modern versions[edit]

Contemporary tabi socks—socks with a separation between the big toe and the rest of the toes—are also available. This reflects the number of people who still prefer to wear zori and geta, especially during Japan's hot, humid summers.


Modern tabi occasionally have elastic openings instead of fasteners.[17]


Belgian fashion house Maison Margiela has released modern boots with a separated big toe since the late 1980s-early 1990s.[11][18][19]. These boots, which come in heeled and flat variants, have become a signature product of the label since their introduction.


A related item are toe socks, which have five separate compartments; these are known as gohon-yubi no kutsushita (5本指の靴下, five-toe socks) in Japanese.

Cotton-paper tabi, 1700s

Cotton-paper tabi, 1700s

Cloth tabi with ties, early 1900s

Cloth tabi with ties, early 1900s

Modern tabi with kohaze hook-and-loop fasteners

Modern tabi with kohaze hook-and-loop fasteners

Knitted stretch-on tabi, no fasteners

Knitted stretch-on tabi, no fasteners

Sheer tabi

Sheer tabi

Woven tabi

Woven tabi

Close-up of kohaze

Close-up of kohaze

Sewing the loops

Sewing the loops

Brightly patterned tabi

Brightly patterned tabi

Leather tabi, Edo period (1603–1867), precursors to modern jika-tabi

Leather tabi, Edo period (1603–1867), precursors to modern jika-tabi

Tabi with reinforced hobnailed soles, Edo period

Tabi with reinforced hobnailed soles, Edo period

Farmworkers wearing outdoor tabi, 1912

Farmworkers wearing outdoor tabi, 1912

Early 20th century cloth-soled tabi boots (reconstruction of 1912 marathon tabi)

Early 20th century cloth-soled tabi boots (reconstruction of 1912 marathon tabi)

A fisherman wearing tabi with sewn-on woven-straw soles, 1915

A fisherman wearing tabi with sewn-on woven-straw soles, 1915

Modern tabi boots designed by Maison Margiela

Modern tabi boots designed by Maison Margiela

(in Japanese)

The Museum of Tabi website

Tabi at the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences

Tabi at the University of Michigan Museum of Art

Tabi at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Maison Martin Margiela: Women's tabi boots at the RISD Museum