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Black tie

Black tie is a semi-formal Western dress code for evening events, originating in British and North American conventions for attire in the 19th century. In British English, the dress code is often referred to synecdochically by its principal element for men, the dinner suit or dinner jacket. In American English, the equivalent term tuxedo (or tux) is common. The dinner suit is a black, midnight blue or white two- or three-piece suit, distinguished by satin or grosgrain jacket lapels and similar stripes along the outseam of the trousers. It is worn with a white dress shirt with standing or turndown collar and link cuffs, a black bow tie, typically an evening waistcoat or a cummerbund, and black patent leather dress shoes or court pumps.[1] Accessories may include a semi-formal homburg, bowler, or boater hat. For women, an evening gown or other fashionable evening attire may be worn.

This article is about the dress code. For other uses, see Black tie (disambiguation), Tuxedo (disambiguation), and Tux (disambiguation).

The first dinner jacket is traditionally traced to 1865 on the then Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII (1841–1910). The late 19th century saw gradual introduction of the lounge jacket without tails as a less formal and more comfortable leisure alternative to the frock coat. Similarly, the shorter dinner jacket evolved as a less formal alternative to the dress coat out of the informal smoking jacket, itself derived from the banyan. Thus in many non-English languages, a dinner jacket is still known as the false friend "smoking". In American English, its synonym "tuxedo" was derived from the village of Tuxedo Park in New York State, where it was introduced in 1886 following the example of Europeans. Following the counterculture of the 1960s, black tie has increasingly replaced white tie for more formal settings in the United States, along with cultures influenced by American culture.


Traditionally worn only for events after 6 p.m., black tie is less formal than white tie but more formal than informal or business dress.[2] As semi-formal, black tie are worn for dinner parties (public, fraternities, private) and sometimes even to balls and weddings, although etiquette experts discourage wearing of black tie for weddings. Traditional semi-formal day wear equivalent is black lounge suit. Supplementary semi-formal alternatives may be accepted for black tie: mess dress uniform, religious clothing (such as cassock), folk costumes (such as highland dress), etc.

Name[edit]

Dinner jacket in the context of menswear first appeared in the United Kingdom around 1887[3] and in the United States around 1889.[4] In the 1960s it became associated in the United States with white or coloured jackets specifically.[5] In modern British English, dinner jacket may be abbreviated to simply a "DJ".[6]


Tuxedo in the context of menswear originated in the United States around 1888.[7] It was named after Tuxedo Park, a Hudson Valley enclave for New York's social elite where it was often seen in its early years. The term was capitalized until the 1930s and traditionally referred only to a white jacket.[8] When the jacket was later paired with its own unique trousers and accessories in the 1900s the term began to be associated with the entire suit. Sometimes it is shortened to "tux".[9]


In French, Italian, Portuguese, German, Polish, Russian, Spanish, Persian, Turkish, and other European languages the style is referred to with the pseudo-anglicism smoking (esmoquin). This generic colloquialism is a false friend deriving from its similarity with the 19th century smoking jacket. In French the dress code may also be called "cravate noire",[10] a term that is sometimes adopted directly into English.[11]


The suit with accompanying accessories is sometimes nicknamed a monkey suit and, since 1918, soup and fish – a term derived from the sort of food thought to be served at black tie dinners.[12][13][14]

A dinner jacket, also called a tuxedo jacket in the United States, is primarily made of black or midnight blue wool. Dinner jackets in an off-white color are also considered appropriate for some occasions, but it traditionally associated with warmer climates and differs from other dinner jackets in that it is self-faced and can be made of fabrics including linen and cotton. Silk jacket lapels and facings, usually grosgrain or satin, are a defining element of the jacket and can be seen on every type of lapel. The dinner jacket may have a peaked lapel, a shawl lapel, or a notched lapel, with some fashion stylists and writers seeing shawl lapels as less formal and notched lapels as the least formal,[41] despite the fact that they, like peaked and shawl, were used (though somewhat rarely) in some of the early forms of the garment.[42]

[40]

Trousers with a single silk or satin braid covering the outer seams, uncuffed and worn with braces

A black low-cut waistcoat or a cummerbund

A white , with a marcella or pleated bib being traditional, with double or "French" cuffs and a turndown collar. While the turndown is most appropriately semi-formal, the attached wing collar has been popular with American men since the 1980s. However, many style authorities argue that the attached version now typically offered is insubstantial with minuscule wings and inappropriately paired with soft pleated fronts.[43]

dress shirt

A black silk bow tie matching the lapel facings

and cufflinks. Some classic etiquette authorities limit studs to stiff-front marcella shirts only and prescribe pearl buttons for soft-front models instead.

Shirt studs

Black dress , usually of silk or fine wool. Some style guides recommend that the socks should come up to the knee.[44]

socks

Black shoes – traditionally court shoes or pumps; now often highly polished or patent leather Oxford dress shoes instead, without brogueing

patent leather

Official portrait of Brazilian President Washington Luís (c. 1926)

Official portrait of Brazilian President Washington Luís (c. 1926)

Queen Elizabeth II, and Prince Philip together with US President John F. Kennedy, and First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis at Buckingham Palace, London, United Kingdom (1961)

Queen Elizabeth II, and Prince Philip together with US President John F. Kennedy, and First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis at Buckingham Palace, London, United Kingdom (1961)

US President Ronald Reagan, Audrey Hepburn, and Robert Wolders at a private dinner for the Prince of Wales at the White House, Washington, D.C., United States (1981)

US President Ronald Reagan, Audrey Hepburn, and Robert Wolders at a private dinner for the Prince of Wales at the White House, Washington, D.C., United States (1981)

US Navy Admiral Mike Mullen (in optional white semi-formal mess dress uniform) congratulates former British Prime Minister Tony Blair at the Atlantic Council of the United States Distinguished Leadership Award Gala (2008).

US Navy Admiral Mike Mullen (in optional white semi-formal mess dress uniform) congratulates former British Prime Minister Tony Blair at the Atlantic Council of the United States Distinguished Leadership Award Gala (2008).

Actors Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt at the 81st Academy Awards (2009)

Actors Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt at the 81st Academy Awards (2009)

King Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Silvia during the World Water Week at the Stockholm City Hall, Sweden (2011)

King Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Silvia during the World Water Week at the Stockholm City Hall, Sweden (2011)

Anthony Bailey (with infrequent orders and medals) speaks at Faith in Sport Olympic Gala Dinner in London, United Kingdom (2012).

Anthony Bailey (with infrequent orders and medals) speaks at Faith in Sport Olympic Gala Dinner in London, United Kingdom (2012).

US President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama at the White House (2012)

US President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama at the White House (2012)

Suit

Western dress codes

White tie

 

Fashion portal

magazine, an account of 1930s fashion and style; some issues more relevant than others, such as those reproduced with comment at The London Lounge: Vol II. No. II and Vol I. No. III (numbering: London Lounge, not original)

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Media related to Black tie (dress code) at Wikimedia Commons