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Cosmetics

Cosmetics are composed of mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources or synthetically created ones.[1] Cosmetics have various purposes. Those designed for personal care and skin care can be used to cleanse or protect the body and skin. Cosmetics designed to enhance or alter one's appearance (makeup) can be used to conceal blemishes, enhance one's natural features (such as the eyebrows and eyelashes), add color to a person's face, or change the appearance of the face entirely to resemble a different person, creature or object.[2] Cosmetics can also be designed to add fragrance to the body.

"Make-up" and "Toilette" redirect here. For other uses, see Make-up (disambiguation) and Cosmetic (disambiguation). "Toilette" is not to be confused with Toilet.

Use[edit]

Cosmetics designed for skin care can be used to cleanse, exfoliate and protect the skin, as well as replenish it, through the use of body lotions, cleansers, toners, serums, moisturizers, eye creams, retinal, and balms. Cosmetics designed for more general personal care, such as shampoo, soap, and body wash, can be used to cleanse the body.


Cosmetics designed to enhance one's appearance (makeup) can be used to conceal blemishes, enhance one's natural features (such as the eyebrows and eyelashes), add color to a person's face, and—in the case of more extreme forms of makeup used for performances, fashion shows, and people in costume—can be used to change the appearance of the face entirely to resemble a different person, creature or object. Techniques for changing appearance include contouring, which aims to give shape to an area of the face.


Cosmetics can also be designed to add fragrance to the body.


Products used for haircare, such as permanent waves, hair colours, and hairsprays are all classified as cosmetic products as well. [7]

used by ancient Egyptians

Kohl

also used in ancient Egypt as a protective balm

Castor oil

made of beeswax, olive oil, and rose water, described by the Romans

Skin creams

and lanolin in the nineteenth century.

Vaseline

Cosmetics have been in use for thousands of years, with ancient Egyptians and Sumerians using them. In Europe, the use of cosmetics continued into the Middle Ages—where the face was whitened and the cheeks rouged—[8] though attitudes towards cosmetics varied throughout time, with the use of cosmetics being openly frowned upon at many points in Western history.[9] Regardless of the changes in social attitudes towards cosmetics, ideals of appearance were occasionally achieved through the use of cosmetics by many.


According to one source, early major developments in cosmetics include:[1]


Historically, the absence of regulation of the manufacture and use of cosmetics, as well as the absence of scientific knowledge regarding the effects of various compounds on the human body for much of this time period, led to a number of negative adverse effects upon those who used cosmetics, including deformities, blindness, and, in some cases, death. Many cosmetic products available at this time were still either chemically dubious or derived from natural resources commonly found in the kitchen, such as food colouring, berries, and beetroot. Examples of the prevalent usage of harmful cosmetics include the use of ceruse (white lead) throughout a number of different cultures, such as during the Renaissance in the West, and blindness caused by the mascara Lash Lure during the early 20th century. During the 19th century, there was a high number of incidences of lead poisoning due to the fashion for red and white lead makeup and powder, leading to swelling and inflammation of the eyes, weakened tooth enamel, and blackened skin, with heavy use known to lead to death. Usage of white lead was not confined only to the West, with the white Japanese face makeup known as oshiroi also produced using white lead. In the second part of the 19th century, scientific advances in the production of makeup lead to the creation of makeup free of hazardous substances such as lead.


Throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries, changes in the prevailing attitudes towards cosmetics led to a wider expansion of the cosmetics industry. In 1882, English actress and socialite Lillie Langtry became the poster girl for Pears of London, making her the first celebrity to endorse a commercial product.[10] She allowed her name to be used on face powders and skin products.[11] During the 1910s, the market in the US was developed by figures such as Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just before World War II and Estée Lauder just after. By the middle of the 20th century, cosmetics were in widespread use by women in nearly all industrial societies around the world, with the cosmetics industry becoming a multibillion-dollar enterprise by the beginning of the 21st century.[12] The wider acceptance of the use of cosmetics led some to see makeup as a tool used in the oppression and subjection of women to unfair societal standards. In 1968, at the feminist Miss America protest, protestors symbolically threw a number of feminine products into a "Freedom Trash Can",[13] with cosmetics among the items the protestors called "instruments of female torture"[14] and accoutrements of what they perceived to be enforced femininity.


As of 2016, the world's largest cosmetics company is L'Oréal, founded by Eugène Schueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane Bettencourt 26% and Nestlé 28%; the remaining 46% is traded publicly).


Although modern makeup has been traditionally used mainly by women, men also use makeup to enhance their own facial features or cover blemishes and dark circles. The negative stigma of men wearing makeup in countries such as the United States has weakened over the years, with numbers increasing in the 21st century.[15] Cosmetics brands have increasingly targeted men in the sale of cosmetics, with some products targeted specifically at men.[16][17]


Lead has been used as a makeup product since the 18th century. It is said to be lethal to women who apply it daily to achieve a pale complexion representing nobility, as tanner skin represents the working class. Lead can be detrimental to people's health and cause death if mixed with vinegar which it allows lead to be absorbed through the skin.[18]

are used on the face before makeup is applied, creating a typically transparent, smooth layer over the top of the skin, allowing for makeup to be applied smoothly and evenly. Some primers may also be tinted, and this tint may match the wearer's skin tone or may colour correct it, using greens, oranges, and purples to even out the wearer's skin tone and correct redness, purple shadows, or orange discolouration respectively.

Primers

is a cream or liquid product used to conceal marks or blemishes on the skin. Concealer is typically the colour of the user's skin tone and is generally applied after the face has been primed to even out the wearer's skin tone before foundation can be applied. Concealer is usually more heavily pigmented, has higher coverage, and is thicker than foundation or tinted primers. Though concealer is often more heavy duty in terms of pigment and consistency than foundation, a number of different formulations intended for different styles of use, such as a lighter concealer for the eyes and a heavier concealer for stage makeup, are available, as well as color-correcting concealers intended to balance out discolouration of the skin specifically.

Concealer

is a cream, liquid, mousse, or powder product applied to the entirety of the face to create a smooth and even base for the user's skin tone. Foundation provides a generally lower amount of coverage than concealer and is sold in formulations that can provide sheer, matte, dewy or full coverage to the skin.[5]

Foundation

, blush, or blusher is a liquid, cream, or powder product applied to the centre of the cheeks with the intention of adding or enhancing their natural colour. Blushers are typically available in shades of pink and red or warm tan and brown, and may also be used to make the cheekbones appear more defined.[5]

Rouge

is a powder, cream, or liquid product that adds colour to the skin, typically in bronze or tan shades, intended to give the skin a tanned appearance and enhance the colour of the face. Bronzer, like highlighter, may also contain substances providing a shimmer or glitter effect,[5] and comes in either matte, semi-matte, satin, or shimmer finishes. Unlike bronzer, the purpose of contour is to help emphasize your facial features by adding depth.[19]

Bronzer

is a liquid, cream, or powder product applied to the high points of the face, such as the eyebrows, nose, and cheekbones. Highlighter commonly has substances added, providing a shimmer or glitter effect. Alternatively, a lighter toned foundation or concealer can be used as a highlighter.

Highlighter

pencils, creams, waxes, gels, and powders are used to color, fill in, and define the brows.[5][20][21] Eyebrow tinting treatments are also used to dye the eyebrow hairs a darker colour, either temporarily or permanently, without staining and colouring the skin underneath the eyebrows.

Eyebrow

is a powder, cream, or liquid pigmented product used to draw attention to, accentuate, and change the shape of the area around the eyes, the eyelids, and the space below the eyebrows. Eyeshadow is typically applied using an eyeshadow brush with generally small and rounded bristles, though liquid and cream formulations may also be applied with the fingers. Eyeshadow is available in almost every colour, as well as being sold in a number of different finishes, ranging from matte finishes with sheer coverage to glossy, shimmery, and highly pigmented finishes. Many different colours and finishes of eyeshadow may be combined in one look and blended together to achieve different effects.

Eyeshadow

is used to enhance and elongate the apparent size or depth of the eye. Though eyeliner is commonly black, it can come in many different colours. Eyeliner can come in the form of a pencil, a gel or a liquid.

Eyeliner

are used to extend, exaggerate, and add volume to the eyelashes. Consisting generally of a small strip to which hair—either human, mink, or synthetic—is attached, false eyelashes are typically applied to the lash line using glue, which can come in latex and latex-free varieties; magnetic false eyelashes, which attach to the eyelid after magnetic eyeliner is applied, are also available. Designs vary in length and colour, with rhinestones, gems, feathers, and lace available as false eyelash designs. False eyelashes are not permanent and can be easily taken off with the fingers. Eyelash extensions are a more permanent way to achieve this look. Each set lasts for two to three weeks, then the set can be filled, similar to the maintenance of acrylic nails. To apply for extensions, the certified lash artist would start by taping down the bottom eyelashes. The lash artist would then use two tweezers, one to isolate the natural eyelash and one to apply the false eyelash. An individual false eyelash, or lash fan, is applied to one natural eyelash using a lash glue specific for this process. The eyelashes should not be stuck together. The length and thickness of the false lash should not be to heavy for the natural eyelash. If this process is done correctly, no harm will be done to the natural eyelashes.[22]

False eyelashes

is used to darken, lengthen, thicken, or enhance the eyelashes through the use of a typically thick, cream-like product applied with a spiral bristle mascara brush. Mascara is commonly black, brown, or clear, though a number of different colours, some containing glitter, are available. Mascara is typically advertised and sold in a number of different formulations that advertise qualities such as waterproofing, volume enhancement, length enhancement, and curl enhancement, and may be used in combination with an eyelash curler to enhance the natural curl of the eyelashes.[5]

Mascara

Lip products, including , lip gloss, lip liner and lip balms, commonly add color and texture to the lips, as well as serving to moisturise the lips and define their external edges.[5] Products adding colour and texture to the lips, such as lipsticks and lip glosses, often come in a wide range of colors as well as a number of different finishes, such as matte finishes and satin or glossy finishes. Other styles of lip coloration products, such as lip stains, temporarily saturate the lips with a dye and typically do not alter the texture of the lips. Both lip colour products and lip liners may be waterproof and may be applied directly to the lips, with a brush, or with the fingers. Lip balms, though designed to moisturise and protect the lips (such as through the addition of UV protection) may also tint the lips.

lipstick

, setting powder, or setting sprays are used to 'set' foundation or concealer, giving it a matte or consistent finish while also concealing small flaws or blemishes. Both powders and setting sprays claim to keep makeup from absorbing into the skin or melting off. While setting sprays are generally not tinted, setting powder and face powder can come in translucent or tinted varieties, and can be used to bake foundation in order for it to stay longer on the face. Tinted face powders may also be worn alone without foundation or concealer to give an extremely sheer coverage base.

Face powder

is a liquid used to colour the fingernails and toenails.[5] Transparent, colorless nail polishes may be used to strengthen nails or be used as a top or base coat to protect the nail or nail polish. Nail polish, like eyeshadow, is available in every colour and a number of different finishes, including matte, shimmer, glossy and crackle finishes.

Nail polish

A is used to apply makeup to the face. There are two types of makeup brushes: synthetic and natural. Synthetic brushes are best for cream products while natural brushes are ideal for powder products.[30] Using the appropriate brush to apply a certain product allows the product to blend into the skin smoothly and evenly.

makeup brush

A brush is usually a dense brush that distributes the product evenly while smoothing out the face. This brush is best used to achieve full coverage.

foundation

A brush has a small, tapered tip that allows for precise spot correction such as blemishes or discoloration.

concealer

A stippling brush has soft, synthetic bristles that give an airbrushed effect. This brush is best used to achieve light to medium coverage.

A brush comes in all shapes and sizes and is used to apply blush, allowing the blush to look natural while giving a flush of color.

blush

A brush tends to be big and fluffy for quick and easy application of dusting powder all over the face. Powder gives the appearance of a matte effect.

powder

A bronzer brush, which can also serve as a contour brush, is an angled brush that gives the face dimensions and illusions by allowing the makeup to be placed in place of bone structure. This brush can also be used to add a shimmering highlight illusion to the cheekbones, nose and chin.

A highlight brush, also known as a fan brush, has bristles that are typically spread out and is used to apply where the sun would naturally hit.

An brush is a dense brush that allows shadow to be packed onto the eyelid.

eyeshadow

A blending eyeshadow brush is used to blend out any harsh lines you may have from the eyeshadow and can soften the eyeshadow look.

An brush is tapered with an extra-fine tip used for gel eyeliners which allows precision to line the eyes.

eyeliner

A spoolie is used to brush out the eyebrows and can also be used as a mascara wand.

A lip brush is small to ensure precision and is used to apply lipstick evenly onto the lips.

An eyebrow brush is tapered and slanting from the top, which tends to define the eyebrows and fill in the empty spaces between brows, to give them a fuller and denser look.

A is used to apply any sort of powder makeup to large surfaces of the face (loose powder, foundation, face powder, blush, bronzer). This brush is used to evenly the skin.

Kabuki brush

Legislation[edit]

Europe[edit]

In the European Union, the manufacture, labelling, and supply of cosmetics and personal care products are regulated by Regulation EC 1223/2009.[91] It applies to all the countries of the EU as well as Iceland, Norway, and Switzerland. This regulation applies to single-person companies making or importing just one product as well as to large multinationals. Manufacturers and importers of cosmetic products must comply with the applicable regulations in order to sell their products in the EU. In this industry, it is common fall back on a suitably qualified person, such as an independent third party inspection and testing company, to verify the cosmetics' compliance with the requirements of applicable cosmetic regulations and other relevant legislation, including REACH, GMP, hazardous substances, etc.[92][93]


In the European Union, the circulation of cosmetic products and their safety have been the subject of legislation since 1976. One of the newest improvements to the regulation concerning the cosmetic industry is the ban on animal testing. Testing cosmetic products on animals has been illegal in the European Union since September 2004, and testing the separate ingredients of such products on animals is also prohibited by law, since March 2009 for some endpoints and full since 2013.[94]


Cosmetic regulations in Europe are often updated to follow the trends of innovations and new technologies while ensuring product safety. For instance, all annexes of Regulation 1223/2009 were aimed at addressing potential risks to human health. Under the EU cosmetic regulation, manufacturers, retailers, and importers of cosmetics in Europe will be designated as "responsible persons.".[95] This new status implies that the responsible person has the legal liability to ensure that the cosmetics and brands they manufacture or sell comply with the current cosmetic regulations and norms. The responsible person is also responsible for the documents contained in the Product Information File (PIF), a list of product information including data such as Cosmetic Product Safety Report, product description, GMP statement, or product function.

United States[edit]

In 1938, the U.S. passed the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act authorizing the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to oversee safety via legislation in the cosmetic industry and its aspects in the United States.[96][97] The FDA joined with 13 other federal agencies in forming the Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) in 1997, which is an attempt to ban animal testing and find other methods to test cosmetic products.[98]


The current law on cosmetics in the U.S. does not require cosmetic products and ingredients to have FDA approval before going on the market, except from color additives.[99] The Cosmetic Safety Enhancement Act was introduced in December 2019 by Representative Frank Pallone.[100]

Brazil[edit]

ANVISA (Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária, Brazilian Health Surveillance Agency) is the regulatory body responsible for cosmetic legislation and directives in the country. The rules apply to manufacturers, importers, and retailers of cosmetics in Brazil, and most of them have been harmonized so they can apply to the entire Mercosur.


The current legislation restricts the use of certain substances, such as pyrogallol, formaldehyde, or paraformaldehyde, and bans the use of others, such as lead acetate in cosmetic products. All restricted and forbidden substances and products are listed in the regulation RDC 16/11 and RDC 162, 09/11/01.


More recently, a new cosmetic Technical Regulation (RDC 15/2013) was set up to establish a list of authorized and restricted substances for cosmetic use, used in products such as hair dyes, nail hardeners, or used as product preservatives.


Most Brazilian regulations are optimized, harmonized, or adapted in order to be applicable and extended to the entire Mercosur economic zone.

International[edit]

The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) published new guidelines on the safe manufacturing of cosmetic products under a Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) regime. Regulators in several countries and regions have adopted this standard, ISO 22716:2007, effectively replacing existing guidance and standards. ISO 22716 provides a comprehensive approach for a quality management system for those engaged in the manufacturing, packaging, testing, storage, and transportation of cosmetic end products. The standard deals with all aspects of the supply chain, from the early delivery of raw materials and components until the shipment of the final product to the consumer.


The standard is based on other quality management systems, ensuring smooth integration with such systems as ISO 9001 or the British Retail Consortium (BRC) standard for consumer products. Therefore, it combines the benefits of GMP, linking cosmetic product safety with overall business improvement tools that enable organisations to meet global consumer demand for cosmetic product safety certification.[101]


In July 2012, since microbial contamination is one of the greatest concerns regarding the quality of cosmetic products, the ISO introduced a new standard for evaluating the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product by preservation efficacy testing and microbiological risk assessment.

Winter, Ruth (2005) [2005]. A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients in Cosmetics (Paperback). US: Three Rivers Press.  978-1-4000-5233-2.

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