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Sakhalin

Sakhalin (Russian: Сахалин, IPA: [səxɐˈlʲin]) is an island in Northeast Asia. Its north coast lies 6.5 km (4.0 mi) off the southeastern coast of Khabarovsk Krai in Russia, while its southern tip lies 40 kilometres (25 mi) north of Japan's Hokkaido. A marginal island of the West Pacific, Sakhalin divides the Sea of Okhotsk to its east from the Sea of Japan to its southwest. It is administered as part of Sakhalin Oblast and is the largest island of Russia,[3] with an area of 72,492 square kilometres (27,989 sq mi). The island has a population of roughly 500,000, the majority of whom are Russians. The indigenous peoples of the island are the Ainu, Oroks, and Nivkhs, who are now present in very small numbers.[4]

This article is about the Russian geographical island. For the federal subject the island is part of, see Sakhalin Oblast.

Geography

72,492 km2 (27,989 sq mi)[2]

23rd

1,609 m (5279 ft)

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk (pop. 174,203)

489,638 (2019)

6/km2 (16/sq mi)

The island's name is derived from the Manchu word Sahaliyan (ᠰᠠᡥᠠᠯᡳᠶᠠᠨ). The Ainu people of Sakhalin paid tribute to the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties and accepted official appointments from them. Sometimes the relationship was forced but control from dynasties in China was loose for the most part.[5][6] Sakhalin was later claimed by both Russia and Japan over the course of the 19th and 20th centuries. These disputes sometimes involved military conflicts and divisions of the island between the two powers. In 1875, Japan ceded its claims to Russia in exchange for the northern Kuril Islands. In 1897 more than half of the population were Russians and other European and Asian minorities.[7] In 1905, following the Russo-Japanese War, the island was divided, with Southern Sakhalin going to Japan. After the Siberian intervention, Japan invaded the northern parts of Sakhalin, and ruled the entire island from 1918 to 1925. Russia has held all of the island since seizing the Japanese portion in the final days of World War II in 1945, as well as all of the Kurils. Japan no longer claims any of Sakhalin, although it does still claim the southern Kuril Islands. Most Ainu on Sakhalin moved to Hokkaido, 43 kilometres (27 mi) to the south across the La Pérouse Strait, when Japanese civilians were displaced from the island in 1949.[8]

Sakhalin and its surroundings.

Sakhalin and its surroundings.

Velikan Cape, Sakhalin

Velikan Cape, Sakhalin

Zhdanko Mountain Ridge

Zhdanko Mountain Ridge

Sakhalin is separated from the mainland by the narrow and shallow Strait of Tartary, which often freezes in winter in its narrower part, and from Hokkaido, Japan, by the Soya Strait or La Pérouse Strait. Sakhalin is the largest island in Russia, being 948 km (589 mi) long, and 25 to 170 km (16 to 106 mi) wide, with an area of 72,492 km2 (27,989 sq mi).[2] It lies at similar latitudes to England, Wales and Ireland.


Its orography and geological structure are imperfectly known. One theory is that Sakhalin arose from the Sakhalin Island Arc.[50] Nearly two-thirds of Sakhalin is mountainous. Two parallel ranges of mountains traverse it from north to south, reaching 600–1,500 m (2,000–4,900 ft). The Western Sakhalin Mountains peak in Mount Ichara, 1,481 m (4,859 ft), while the Eastern Sakhalin Mountains's highest peak, Mount Lopatin 1,609 m (5,279 ft), is also the island's highest mountain. Tym-Poronaiskaya Valley separates the two ranges. Susuanaisky and Tonino-Anivsky ranges traverse the island in the south, while the swampy Northern-Sakhalin plain occupies most of its north.[51]


Crystalline rocks crop out at several capes; Cretaceous limestones, containing an abundant and specific fauna of gigantic ammonites, occur at Dui on the west coast; and Tertiary conglomerates, sandstones, marls, and clays, folded by subsequent upheavals, are found in many parts of the island. The clays, which contain layers of good coal and abundant fossilized vegetation, show that during the Miocene period, Sakhalin formed part of a continent which comprised north Asia, Alaska, and Japan, and enjoyed a comparatively warm climate. The Pliocene deposits contain a mollusc fauna more Arctic than that which exists at the present time, indicating that the connection between the Pacific and Arctic Oceans was probably broader than it is now.


Main rivers: The Tym, 330 km (205 mi) long and navigable by rafts and light boats for 80 km (50 mi), flows north and northeast with numerous rapids and shallows, and enters the Sea of Okhotsk.[52] The Poronay flows south-southeast to the Gulf of Patience or Shichiro Bay, on the southeastern coast. Three other small streams enter the wide semicircular Aniva Bay or Higashifushimi Bay at the southern extremity of the island.


The northernmost point of Sakhalin is Cape of Elisabeth on the Schmidt Peninsula, while Cape Crillon is the southernmost point of the island.


Sakhalin has two smaller islands associated with it, Moneron Island and Ush Island. Moneron, the only land mass in the Tatar strait, 7.2 km (4.5 mi) long and 5.6 km (3.5 mi) wide, is about 24 nautical miles (44 km) west from the nearest coast of Sakhalin and 41 nmi (76 km) from the port city of Nevelsk. Ush Island is an island off of the northern coast of Sakhalin.

A passenger train in Nogliki

A passenger train in Nogliki

A Japanese D51 steam locomotive outside the Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk Railway Station

A Japanese D51 steam locomotive outside the Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk Railway Station

Washington, United States

Gig Harbor

South Korea

Jeju Province

18th Century to 1875

Russian Empire

Empire of Japan 1840–1875

Tokugawa Shogunate

1636–1872

Qing dynasty

List of islands of Russia

– a geological formation on the island

Ryugase Group

Winter storms of 2009–10 in East Asia

(1999). Ruins of identity: ethnogenesis in the Japanese Islands. University of Hawai'i Press. ISBN 9780824864194.

Hudson, Mark J.

Kim, Loretta E. (2019), Ethnic Chrysalis, Harvard University Asia Center

Nakamura, Kazuyuki (2010). "Kita kara no mōko shūrai wo meguru shōmondai" 「北からの蒙古襲来」をめぐる諸問題 [Several questions around "the Mongol attack from the north"]. In Kikuchi, Toshihiko (ed.). Hokutō Ajia no rekishi to bunka 北東アジアの歴史と文化 [A history and cultures of Northeast Asia] (in Japanese). Hokkaido University Press.  9784832967342.

ISBN

Nakamura, Kazuyuki (2012). "Gen-Mindai no shiryō kara mieru Ainu to Ainu bunka" 元・明代の史料にみえるアイヌとアイヌ文化 [The Ainu and Ainu culture from historical records of the Yuan and Ming]. In Katō, Hirofumi; Suzuki, Kenji (eds.). (in Japanese). Hokkaido University. pp. 138–145.

Atarashii Ainu shi no kōchiku : senshi hen, kodai hen, chūsei hen 新しいアイヌ史の構築 : 先史編・古代編・中世編

Nakayama, Taisho (2015), , Voices from the Shifting Russo-Japanese Border: Karafuto / Sakhalin, Routledge, ISBN 978-1-315-75268-6 – via Google Books

Japanese Society on Karafuto

Narangoa, Li (2014), Historical Atlas of Northeast Asia, 1590–2010: Korea, Manchuria, Mongolia, Eastern Siberia, New York: Columbia University Press,  9780231160704

ISBN

Schlesinger, Jonathan (2017), , Stanford University Press, ISBN 9781503600683

A World Trimmed with Fur: Wild Things, Pristine Places, and the Natural Fringes of Qing Rule

Smith, Norman, ed. (2017), Empire and Environment in the Making of Manchuria, , ISBN 9780774832908

University of British Columbia Press

Sasaki, Shiro (1999), , Arctic Study Center, National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington D.C.

Trading Brokers and Partners with China, Russia, and Japan, In W. W. Fitzhugh and C. O. Dubreuil (eds.) Ainu: Spirit of a Northern People

Stephan, John (1971). Sakhalin: a history. Oxford: Clarendon Press.  9780198215509.

ISBN

Tanaka, Sakurako (Sherry) (2000). The Ainu of Tsugaru : the indigenous history and shamanism of northern Japan (Thesis). The University of British Columbia. :10.14288/1.0076926.

doi

Trekhsviatskyi, Anatolii (2007). "At the far edge of the Chinese Oikoumene: Mutual relations of the indigenous population of Sakhalin with the Yuan and Ming dynasties". Journal of Asian History. 41 (2): 131–155.  0021-910X. JSTOR 41933457.

ISSN

Walker, Brett L. (2006). . Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press. ISBN 0-520-24834-1.

The Conquest of Ainu Lands: Ecology and Culture in Japanese Expansion, 1590–1800

Zgusta, Richard (2015). The peoples of Northeast Asia through time : precolonial ethnic and cultural processes along the coast between Hokkaido and the Bering Strait. Leiden, The Netherlands: Brill.  9789004300439. OCLC 912504787.

ISBN

Anton Chekhov

C. H. Hawes, In the Uttermost East (London, 1903). (quoted in EB1911, see below)

Ajay Kamalakaran, Sakhalin Unplugged (Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 2006)

Ajay Kamalakaran, Globetrotting for Love and Other Stories from Sakhalin Island (Times Group Books, 2017)

; Bealby, John Thomas (1911). "Sakhalin" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 24 (11th ed.). p. 54.

Kropotkin, Peter Alexeivitch

John J. Stephan, Sakhalin: A History. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1971.

– at Blackbourn Geoconsulting

Map of the Sakhalin Hydrocarbon Region

– Proposed Sakhalin–Hokkaidō Friendship Tunnel

TransGlobal Highway

Steam and the Railways of Sakhalin

from 1854

Maps of Ezo, Sakhalin and Kuril Islands