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Galápagos Islands

The Galápagos Islands (Spanish: Islas Galápagos) are an archipelago of volcanic islands in the Eastern Pacific, located around the Equator 900 km (560 mi) west of the mainland of South America. They form the Galápagos Province of the Republic of Ecuador, with a population of slightly over 33,000 (2020). The province is divided into the cantons of San Cristóbal, Santa Cruz, and Isabela, the three most populated islands in the chain. The Galápagos are famous for their large number of endemic species, which were studied by Charles Darwin in the 1830s and inspired his theory of evolution by means of natural selection. All of these islands are protected as part of Ecuador's Galápagos National Park and Marine Reserve.

"Galápagos" redirects here. For the province, see Galápagos Province. For other uses, see Galápagos (disambiguation).

Geography

127

18

27,191[a] km2 (10,499 sq mi)[1]

1,707 m (5600 ft)

33,042 (2020)

3/km2 (8/sq mi)

Galápagos Islands

Natural

vii, viii, ix, x

1978 (2nd session)

1

2001 and 2003

2007–2010

Thus far, there is no firm evidence that Polynesians or the indigenous peoples of South America reached the islands before their accidental discovery by Bishop Tomás de Berlanga in 1535. If some visitors did arrive, poor access to fresh water on the islands seems to have limited settlement. The Spanish Empire similarly ignored the islands, although during the Golden Age of Piracy various pirates used the Galápagos as a base for raiding Spanish shipping along the Peruvian coast. The goats and black and brown rats introduced during this period greatly damaged the existing ecosystems of several islands. English sailors were chiefly responsible for exploring and mapping the area. Darwin's voyage on HMS Beagle was part of an extensive British survey of the coasts of South America. Ecuador, which won its independence from Spain in 1822 and left Gran Colombia in 1830, formally occupied and claimed the islands on 12 February 1832 while the voyage was ongoing.[2] José de Villamil, the founder of the Ecuadorian Navy, led the push to colonize and settle the islands,[2] gradually supplanting the English names of the major islands with Spanish ones. The United States built the islands' first airport as a base to protect the western approaches of the Panama Canal in the 1930s. After World War II, its facilities were transferred to Ecuador. With the growing importance of ecotourism to the local economy, the airport modernized in the 2010s, using recycled materials for any expansion and shifting entirely to renewable energy sources to handle its roughly 300,000 visitors each year.

Names[edit]

The Galápagos or Galapagos Islands are named for their giant tortoises,[3] which were more plentiful at the time of their discovery. The Spanish word galápago derives from a pre-Roman Iberian word meaning "turtle", the meaning it still has in most dialects. Within Ecuadorian Spanish, however, it is now also used to describe the islands' large tortoises.[4] The islands' name is pronounced [ˈislas ɣaˈlapaɣos] in most dialects of Spanish but [ˈihlah ɣaˈlapaɣoh] by locals. (The accent over the second A does not change the name's pronunciation but moves the stress from the 3rd syllable to the 2nd.) It is usually read /ɡəˈlæpəɡəs/ in British English and /ɡəˈlɑːpəɡəs/ in American English.[5] The name is first attested as the Spanish/Latin hybrid Insulae de los Galopegos ("Islands of the Turtles") on the map of the Americas in Abraham Ortelius's Theater of the Lands of the World (Theatrum Orbis Terrarum), first published in 1570.[6]


The islands were also previously known as the Enchanted Isles or Islands (Islas Encantadas) from sailors' difficulty with the winds and currents around them;[7] as the Ecuador Archipelago (Archipiélago de Ecuador) or Archipelago of the Equator (Archipiélago del Ecuador) following their settlement by Ecuador in 1832;[8] and as the Colon or Columbus Archipelago (Archipiélago del Colón) in 1892 upon the quadricentennial of Columbus's first voyage.[8]


The islands were mapped by the English buccaneer William Ambrosia Cowley in 1684 and by the British captain James Colnett in 1793. The names they chose to honour British kings, nobles, and naval officers of their eras continued to be used for the major islands until recently and are still used for many of the smaller islets. The Spanish names have varied over time, but the current official names have gradually supplanted the English ones for most of the major islands.[8]

– Baltra is a small flat island located near the centre of the Galápagos. It was created by geological uplift. The island is very arid, and vegetation consists of salt bushes, prickly pear cacti and palo santo trees. Until 1986, Seymour Airport was the only airport serving the Galápagos. Now, there are two airports which receive flights from the continent; the other is located on San Cristóbal Island. Private planes flying to Galápagos must fly to Baltra, as it is the only airport with facilities for private planes. On arriving in Baltra, all visitors are immediately transported by bus to one of two docks. The first dock is located in a small bay, where the boats cruising Galápagos await passengers. The second is a ferry dock, which connects Baltra to the island of Santa Cruz. During the 1940s, scientists decided to move 70 of Baltra's land iguanas to the neighboring North Seymour Island as part of an experiment. This move proved unexpectedly useful when the native iguanas became extinct on Baltra as a result of the island's military occupation in World War II. During the 1980s, iguanas from North Seymour were brought to the Charles Darwin Research Station as part of a breeding and repopulation project, and in the 1990s, land iguanas were reintroduced to Baltra. As of 1997, scientists counted 97 iguanas living on Baltra; 13 of which had hatched on the islands.

Baltra (South Seymour) Island

– Bartolomé Island is a volcanic islet just off the east coast of Santiago Island in the Galápagos Islands group. it is one of the younger islands in the Galápagos archipelago. This island, and neighbouring Sulivan Bay on Santiago (James) island, are named after lifelong friend of Charles Darwin, Sir Bartholomew James Sulivan, who was a lieutenant aboard HMS Beagle.[22] Today Sulivan Bay is often misspelled Sullivan Bay. This island is one of the few that are home to the Galápagos penguin which is the only wild penguin species to live on the equator. The green turtle is another animal that resides on the island.

Bartolomé (Bartholomew) Island

– This island is named after Charles Darwin. It has an area of 1.1 km2 (0.42 sq mi) and a maximum altitude of 168 metres (551 ft). Here fur seals, frigates, marine iguanas, swallow-tailed gulls, sea lions, whales, marine turtles, and red-footed and Nazca boobies can be seen. The remnants of Darwin's Arch, a natural rock arch which would at one time have been part of this larger structure, are located less than a kilometre from the main Darwin Island, and it was a landmark well known to the island's few visitors. It collapsed in May 2021. The two remaining stumps are now nicknamed the "Pillars of Evolution".[23]

Darwin (Culpepper) Island

– Its name was given in honor of Spain. It also is known as Hood, after Viscount Samuel Hood. It has an area of 60 km2 (23 sq mi) and a maximum altitude of 206 metres (676 ft). Española is the oldest island at around 3.5 million years, and the southernmost in the group. Due to its remote location, Española has a large number of endemic species. It has its own species of lava lizard, mockingbird, and Galápagos tortoise. Española's marine iguanas exhibit a distinctive red coloration change between the breeding season. Española is the only place where the waved albatross nests. Some of the birds have attempted to breed on Genovesa (Tower) Island, but unsuccessfully. Española's steep cliffs serve as the perfect runways for these birds, which take off for their ocean feeding grounds near the mainland of Ecuador and Peru. Española has two visitor sites. Gardner Bay is a swimming and snorkelling site, and offers a great beach. Punta Suarez has migrant, resident, and endemic wildlife, including brightly colored marine iguanas, Española lava lizards, hood mockingbirds, swallow-tailed gulls, blue-footed boobies, Nazca boobies, red-billed tropicbirds, Galápagos hawks, three species of Darwin's finches, and the waved albatross.

Española (Hood) Island

– The name was given in honor of King Ferdinand II of Aragon, who sponsored the voyage of Columbus. Fernandina has an area of 642 km2 (248 sq mi) and a maximum altitude of 1,494 m (4,902 ft). This is the youngest and westernmost island. On 13 May 2005, a new, very eruptive process began on this island, when an ash and water vapor cloud rose to a height of 7 km (23,000 ft) and lava flows descended the slopes of the volcano on the way to the sea. Punta Espinosa is a narrow stretch of land where hundreds of marine iguanas gather, largely on black lava rocks. The famous flightless cormorants inhabit this island, as do Galápagos penguins, pelicans, Galápagos sea lions and Galápagos fur seals. Different types of lava flows can be compared, and the mangrove forests can be observed.

Fernandina (Narborough) Island

History[edit]

Pre-Columbian era[edit]

Whether Polynesians or the indigenous peoples of South America ever made it to the islands is disputed. Oceanic Pacific islands in the same general area as Galápagos—including Clipperton, Cocos, the Desventuradas, the Juan Fernández Islands, and the Revillagigedos—were all uninhabited when discovered by Europeans, with no evidence to indicate any prehistoric human activity.[29][30][31] The easternmost oceanic island in the South Pacific that was discovered with a human population was Easter Island,[30] whose Rapa Nui people are known to be Polynesian rather than South American.[32]


In 1572, the Spanish chronicler Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa claimed that Topa Inca Yupanqui, the second Sapa Inca of the Inca Empire, had visited the archipelago. There is, however, little evidence for this and many experts consider it a far-fetched legend, especially since the Incas were not typically a seafaring people.[33] A 1952 archaeological survey by Thor Heyerdahl and Arne Skjølsvold found potsherds and other artifacts from several sites on the islands that they claimed suggested visitation by South Americans during the pre-Columbian era.[34] The group located an Inca flute and shards from more than 130 pieces of ceramics, later identified as pre-Incan. However, no remains of graves, ceremonial vessels, or buildings have ever been found, suggesting no permanent settlement occurred before the Spanish arrived in the 16th century.[35] A 2016 reanalysis of Heyerdahl and Skjølsvold's archaeological sites rejected their conclusions. They found that—at all locations excavated by the 1952 survey—artifacts of Indian and European origin were interspersed without the distinct spatial or stratigraphic arrangement that would be expected from independent sequential deposition. (Heyerdahl and Skjølsvold had noted this in their original report while ignoring its implications.) Radiocarbon dates from the sites placed them in the post-Spanish era and preliminary paleoenvironmental analysis showed no disturbance older than 500 years before present, suggesting no evidence from the survey that the islands were visited prior to their Spanish discovery in 1535. The authors suggested that native artifacts found by Heyerdahl and Skjølsvold had probably been brought as mementos or souvenirs at the time of Spanish occupation.[36]


A 2008 report by archeologists from the Australian National University stated that certain Asia–Pacific taxa may have been growing in the Galápagos prior to 1535. This opens a direction for future research which might "constitute a strong line of evidence for accidental or deliberate landfall in the Galápagos by a Polynesian vessel",[30] although the report noted current scholarship finds no evidence that Pacific islands beyond Easter Island "play[ed] a 'stepping stone' role in the interaction between Amerindians or Polynesians in prehistory".[30] The lack of fresh water on the islands seems to have limited visits and settlement, if any ever occurred.

Zenaida galapagoensis, two subspecies

Galápagos dove

Myiarchus magnirostris

Galápagos flycatcher

Conolophus spp.

Galápagos land iguanas

Amblyrhynchus cristatus, the only iguana feeding in the sea

Marine iguana

(Galápagos giant tortoise), Chelonoidis nigra, known as galápago in Spanish, it gave the name to the islands

Galápagos tortoise

Chelonia mydas agassisi, a subspecies of the green turtle

Galápagos green turtle

Pseudalsophis biserialis, an endemic species of snake with two subspecies

Galápagos racer

the cause of environmental battles with fishermen over quotas of this expensive Asian delicacy

Sea cucumbers

Phalacrocorax harrisi

Flightless cormorant

and magnificent frigatebird

Great frigatebird

Sula nebouxii, popular among visitors for their large blue feet which they show off in courtship

Blue-footed booby

Spheniscus mendiculus, the only living tropical penguin

Galápagos penguin

Phoebastria irrorata, the only living tropical albatross

Waved albatross

Buteo galapagoensis, the islands' main scavenger (at the top of the food chain) and "environmental police"

Galápagos hawk

Four species of Galápagos mockingbirds, the first species Darwin noticed to vary from island to island

endemic

Thirteen endemic species of , popularly called Darwin's finches. Among them is the sharp-beaked ground finch Geospiza difficilis septentrionalis which is sometimes called the "vampire finch" for its blood-sucking habits, and the tool-using woodpecker finch, Camarhynchus pallidus

tanagers

Zalophus wollebaeki, closely related to the California sea lion, but smaller

Galápagos sea lions

Two endemic genera of cacti, each with a single species: , the candelabra cactus, and Brachycereus nesioticus, the lava cactus

Jasminocereus thouarsii

List of birds of the Galápagos Islands

List of animals in the Galápagos Islands

Galápagos National Park

Galápagos hotspot

Galápagos Islands xeric scrub

Galápagos Province

Darwin's Arch

author of various books featuring the Galápagos Islands

Johanna Angermeyer

Black, Juan (1973), Galápagos, Archipiélago del Ecuador (in Spanish), Quito{{}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link), a comprehensive monograph by a former officer of the Galápagos National Park financed by the World Wildlife Fund and the Charles Darwin Foundation for the Galápagos Islands

citation

Müller, Bodo; et al. (2003), Galápagos: Die Verwunschenen Inseln (in German), BLV,  3-86108-909-2.

ISBN

Quammen, David (1996), The Song of the Dodo, New York: Touchstone.

Romero, Simon (4 October 2009), , The New York Times, New York{{citation}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link).

"To Protect Galápagos, Ecuador Limits a Two-Legged Species"

Wittmer, Margret (1961), Floreana: A Woman's Pilgrimage to the Galápagos, Travel Book Club, a memoir written by the matriarch of the first family to successfully inhabit Floreana, settling there in 1932.

Media related to Galapagos at Wikimedia Commons

Galapagos Islands travel guide from Wikivoyage

. Terrestrial Ecoregions. World Wildlife Fund.

"Galápagos Islands xeric scrub"

Galápagos geology, with general information on the Galápagos Islands